I set my wheel to 880 in the logitech control panel so I match it here. That 10° on each end keeps me from smashing the hard lock points a bit.
KEEP IN MIND.. this has nothing to do with the degrees the game uses. That is determined by the wheel and its external settings. This is a purely visual modification.
Last edited by CdnRacer; 09-08-11 at 03:06 PM.
Here are two examples of real car steering lock.
First a stock Z06 drifting.
He definitely uses the whole steering lock of the wheel and I believe the wheels are 19° if the rFactor mod is to be believed.
Then this is an 80's Touring Master's Holden
He rarely uses more then 360° during normal racing but in an emergency he has at least another lock of turn in each direction. That is what your missing when using such a low lock. Plus when you are driving see if you use the full lock on the tightest turn. If you do then you couldn't possibly correct even the smallest slide.
I use V8 factor mostly. In this video is basically how much wheel I like to use.
I used a black momo for a few years and had gotten very used to low degree wheels. I'm still getting used to the 900degree wheel. That's why I love how netkar and iR allows you to enter 900 degrees in game. For me that is the best.
Last edited by CdnRacer; 09-08-11 at 04:16 PM.
Wheel lock is purely a personal preference thing... and since 90+% of the time in rFactor you're actually racing, not parking in a car park, you rarely need more than 360° total turn when driving. I have my wheel set to 450°, usually with 18° setup lock, and only in slow corners do I get past 90° input, much like most real racing cars you'll see. Any normal street car is the same - the only reason you actually use more lock is that you often take sharper turns than you would on a race track. (of course, I'm referring to normal, 'straight' situations - correcting big slides and similar might need more input)
If I understand you correctly CdnRacer, you're talking about the fact that a lot of mods limit the amount of setup lock you can have - I've seen quite a few mods where the max is 20°, so if you want to actually use the 900°+ of your hardware you end up with hardly any steering going on (despite, obviously, being able to get the on-screen wheel matching your actual wheel). Unfortunately just opening everything up and allowing 45 or 60° setup lock can make things ugly because the suspension does some pretty nasty things if it's not designed to cater for it, and that's probably not entirely inaccurate; I would think a lot of purpose-built race cars wouldn't have the same amount of turn at full-lock as road cars.
I agree with you though, I think the neatest situation would be to just have the wheel on its maximum lock, and be able to define in rFactor, per-car, what the max steering lock for that particular car should be. If you tell it the F1 car you're driving should allow 450° input, and you've set your wheel as 900° in the Settings, then when you get to 50% of lock in either direction it uses the FFB to simulate the boundary there (and doesn't react to any further lock you decide to put on it), in exactly the same way the G25/7 does it when you use less than than the full 900°. That way you can use more lock when it makes sense, without having to go and change any settings outside rF.
First of all, thanks a lot for everything Zeos. You have solved my FFB problem and with your answers I now understand much more clearly the philosophy of your setup. The sensations in the wheel were just great. I have had the race tonight and I have enjoyed it a lot. I started training last night after fixing FFB and I have entered the race with only 32 hotlaps.
In the second leg I have passed several people before a fatal accident that ruined my race and that encourages me a lot for next race. I will edit to post the link of the first laps of the second leg to Youtube in case you want to watch.
I will let you know if I adapt to the change. I guess that doubling the wheel range will require an intensity adjust ment in RFP (I clearly understand how to do it now after yor answer )
Last edited by SPASKIS; 09-08-11 at 08:44 PM.
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to let everyone know that there is an entry in the LeoFFB that needs to be adjusted or you will get FFB that reverses itself halfway through turning the FFB wheel
6.0 Slip angle where aligning moment reverses direction - typically between 8 and 15 degrees
By default, that entry is 6 I believe. try adjusting that entry around and see what a difference it makes. Just FYI
it cured that problem for me, and I even made a thread about it called "LeoFFB weird issue" where I solved the problem and posted my results.
I suspect that this entry will have to be adjusted for each mod.
Today, for the very first time, I installed this plugin by following the instructions provided. After that I tried the endurance series mod with realfeel on but I hardly notice any difference at all even when strenghtening and softening FFB levels. What am I actually supposed to "feel"? I have a Logitech Formula Vibration Feedback Wheel. When entering a track it says "realfeel is enabled" so it should be working, right?
Hmm.. that might explain why I didn't notice any difference at all^^
Guess I have to get a new wheel then, any suggestions? Logitech G27 maybe?
With T500RS there are some issues too. V2 had problems (mine had faulty FFB motor), V3 had problems... V4 still have problems (noisy fan is the most common problem). G27 is more toy-ish compared to T500RS but overall, G27 is probably an all time "best bang for buck" wheel (before, G25 was like that).
The rig: Win 7 x64 Pro; Intel i3 540; Intel DH57JG; G.Skill 2x4GB; MSI GTX 780 Lightning 3GB; be quiet! Straight Power CM 600W; 2x Dell 22" U2209WA + 1x Dell 22" P2210; The gear: T500 RS + CSPv2;
Very interesting thread. I love rFactor and hope rF2 will be better.
I just bought the Fanatec GT3 RS and CSP and still trying to figure out how to get some decent ffb out of the wheel. I used the same settings i had for my previous red momo wheel, but feels hopeless, flat and no real feel around corners as i had before. BTW, the fanatec plugin is not installed, but Realfeel and Leo plugins are installed.
Any suggestions or a link where i can find some settings?
Can someone also explain what effect the axis sensitivities inside RF controller have on the gas and brake pedal?
New problem - yesterday the wheel was working fine on rFactor, but when i launched the game today and press race to go on track, the wheel turns all the way left and stays there. Cant straighten it because the FFB is pushing left. Any ideas?
Update - the above problem only happens when leo's dll is installed. Could there be a setting in leo's ini that causes the ffb to push left? Pity I cant use it.
Last edited by Krazyrider; 12-03-11 at 04:20 AM.
I have one question to first post.
4} Go to your Driving wheels control panel - why the value in checkbox allow game to adjust settings is not set ??